AMECAMECA, Mexico (AP) — Meet Moisés Vega, a 64-year-old Mexican with a unique calling: he claims to possess the ability to communicate with volcanoes in their sacred language, beseeching them for favorable weather and bountiful crops.
Although the international community had taken notice of the eruptions of gas and ash from the 17,797-foot (5,425-meter) Popocatépetl volcano, Mexico recently lowered its alert level. However, for Vega, the majestic mountain, affectionately known as El Popo, is a sentient entity that never escapes his gaze.
“To us, Popocatépetl is our father, and Iztaccíhuatl is our mother,” he expressed, referring to the neighboring volcano. “They provide us with water, and we hold no fear of them. On the contrary, their emissions are blessings, for they grant us the gift of life.”
While there is no direct translation for his occupation in English, among the inhabitants of central Mexican towns, individuals like Vega are known as “graniceros.”
“Their vocation is rooted in the pre-Hispanic belief of harmonizing with nature,” explained archaeologist Arturo Montero from the University of Tepeyac. “They serve as weather regulators, perceiving mountains as spirits of nature.”
The exact number of “graniceros” in Mexico remains unknown. According to Moisés Vega, who resides in Amecameca, a city located 44 miles southeast of Mexico City, there are only four “graniceros” in his locality, including himself. He speculates that there might be a similar number in nearby towns.
Local belief holds that only men who have been struck by lightning and survived, like Vega, are eligible to assume this role.
“I always knew I would become a ‘granicero’ since I was a young boy,” Vega shared. In 1998, he underwent a ritual ordination to officially assume the position.
His primary responsibility involves conducting rituals three times a year, beseeching the volcanoes for favorable weather, particularly the optimal amount of rainfall necessary for crops to thrive. These ceremonies are primarily held in stone shrines erected by the locals on the mountains of “El Popo” or “El Izta.”
Additionally, Vega supplements his income by serving as a traditional healer and narrating the story of El Popo to tourists who visit a volcano museum in Amecameca.
Montero acknowledged that it is challenging for modern “graniceros” to maintain their deep understanding of ancient wisdom, especially since many of them have to juggle multiple jobs to make a living. However, their commitment to preserving their ancestral legacy remains steadfast. Responding to inquiries from anthropologists, journalists, and tourists allows them to uphold and pass on their traditional knowledge to future generations, according to Montero.
On a recent Sunday, Vega gestured towards a replica shrine, intended to provide visitors with a glimpse of what authentic temples devoted to volcanoes look like. He explained that the rituals he conducts are a blend of pre-Hispanic and Christian elements. These shrines, adorned with flowers and fruits, also incorporate crosses but not crucifixes. They are painted blue to symbolize the sky or white to represent clouds.
“While I respect the (Catholic) religion because we grew up in this place, the mountain speaks to us in the words of our grandparents, not in the words of the conquerors,” Vega stated, alluding to the evangelization efforts led by the Spaniards following 1521.
The rumbling of “El Popo” serves as a signal to Vega that something is amiss. It could mean that someone has ascended the slopes of the volcano to perform an animal sacrifice, which goes against the community’s beliefs. It might indicate that crosses have been stolen from their sacred positions or that the soil has been desecrated by a group of intoxicated individuals.
Vega emphasized that alcohol is strictly forbidden in the vicinity of the volcanoes. He explained that spirits can become intoxicated, disrupting the weather patterns and potentially leading to catastrophic consequences. Adverse weather conditions can devastate crops, resulting in hunger for the people.
The perception of “El Popo” as a sacred entity varies among different towns, but there is a general consensus that the volcano does not pose a direct threat to the lives of the local inhabitants. Leticia Muñoz, an avocado vendor in the town of Ozumba, expressed her trust in the “graniceros” more than the government, emphasizing that she would never evacuate her home.
“One can see that the volcano is harmless,” she affirmed. “If it wanted to, it would erupt.”
The last major eruption of El Popo occurred in 1994, and its smoke was visible to many in Mexico City. Numerous people who were evacuated during that time reported losing their animals and vowed never to leave their homes again.
According to Laura Elena Romero, an anthropologist from the University of the Americas Puebla, the connection between local communities and volcanoes has evolved over the centuries because each mountain responds to the needs of its inhabitants. Romero explains that the sacred mountains of Mesoamerica are associated with vital life resources, which is why “graniceros” like Vega make offerings to request rain, while others seek prosperity for their businesses.
During rituals, Romero explains, there is a dialogue between humans and the volcanoes, considering them as integral members of each community.
“The volcano would not harm the people to whom it belongs,” she stated.
