In the outskirts of Rippey, Iowa, a remarkable scene unfolded as a large group of cyclists embarked on a 100-plus mile journey during the world’s longest and oldest recreational ride. Among them were five men and two women, who caught the attention of beer enthusiasts for their distinctive jerseys.
As the cyclists rode single-file along the left side of the road, the eye-catching jerseys they wore showcased their passion for beer. One of them proudly displayed imagery from Toppling Goliath’s flagship Pseudo Sue pale ale, while another jersey represented Exile Brewing Company, located in the state capital, Des Moines. Additionally, there was a jersey highlighting Big Grove Brewery, adding to the unique and colorful spectacle on the road.
The backs of approximately 50,000 riders participating in RAGBRAI, the annual bike ride across Iowa, proudly display jerseys from hundreds of other breweries. These jerseys from small- and medium-sized breweries serve as a testament to the remarkable growth of the craft beer industry. More importantly, they signify the increasing significance of craft beer in rural America. The flourishing presence of these breweries on the ride reflects the widespread appeal and appreciation for craft beer among enthusiasts, showcasing its rapid expansion and influence in communities far beyond urban centers.
According to Clark Lewey, co-founder of Toppling Goliath, Iowa is teeming with exceptional breweries that have made a significant impact in the craft beer market. In 2009, he and his wife Barbara established Toppling Goliath in Decorah, a town located in northeastern Iowa. Since then, the brewery has garnered immense popularity and acclaim in the industry.
Toppling Goliath’s reputation is further solidified by its top rankings on the BeerAdvocate website, a go-to resource for millions of beer consumers. Their Kentucky Brunch Brand Stout holds the prestigious No. 1 spot in the world, while the Vanilla Bean Assassin, another imperial stout offering, secures the No. 2 position. Additionally, their Mornin’ Delight ranks among the top 10.
For a relatively young brewery situated in a town of roughly 7,500 residents, achieving such global recognition is no small feat. Decorah, despite being away from major urban areas, has become a cherished destination for beer enthusiasts and travelers alike. Clark Lewey attributes this success to the combination of outstanding beer and the town’s alluring charm. Visitors who come for the exceptional brews often end up falling in love with Decorah’s welcoming atmosphere, vibrant downtown, multiple breweries, ciderworks, coffee shops, and diverse restaurants. Similar experiences can be found in many other towns with thriving craft beer scenes, creating a remarkable sense of community and enjoyment for beer lovers across Iowa.
In Decorah, another popular brewery named Pulpit Rock Brewing has garnered a significant following. Not far away in Calmar, a town with just over 1,100 residents, PIVO Brewery operates its taphouse. What’s fascinating is that PIVO Brewery’s owner, Sara Neuzil, not only showcases her art pieces at the taphouse but also contributes to the growing cultural scene in these small communities.
This trend is not unique to Decorah and Calmar; it’s happening in various small towns all over Iowa. Many of these towns now boast at least one brewery that has become a destination in its own right. This has led to increased tourism in areas that might not have received many visitors otherwise.
According to Noreen Otto, the executive director of the Iowa Brewers Guild, the craft beer industry in the state is maturing and experiencing substantial growth. As a result, it has garnered excitement and recognition from both locals and the national community. The Iowa Brewers Guild actively supports breweries across the state, fostering an environment of progress and innovation.
One of the ways this growth is manifesting is through events like the Iowa Craft Beer Tent, which makes appearances at various gatherings throughout the state. At these events, beer enthusiasts eagerly line up to experience a diverse selection of up to 20 beers and ciders, all served directly from taps on a trailer. This commitment to quality and variety is a testament to how breweries and cideries are actively listening to consumers’ preferences and producing unique, timely, and interesting beverages that align with their tastes and interests. The craft beer industry has become an integral part of major events, such as RAGBRAI, further demonstrating its significance in the state’s cultural fabric and community engagement.
During RAGBRAI, the beer tents are strategically set up at two stops each day for the first six days of the ride, with an additional stop on the concluding day, making a total of 13 stops. Cyclists over the age of 21 can obtain a wristband on the first day, and if they get it scanned at 10 of the designated stops, they earn a T-shirt featuring the year’s bike route, proudly displaying the hashtag “#EarnedIt.”
These beer tents have been particularly popular during the ride due to the scorching temperatures, which have steadily climbed to nearly 100 degrees throughout the week. With the natural association between beer and sports, especially in recreational events like RAGBRAI, riders have sought the refreshing relief provided by craft beers.
While overall U.S. beer sales experienced a 3% decline last year, craft brewery sales remained stable, leading to a rise in the market share of independent brewers, which now stands at 13.2% by volume. Craft beer’s retail dollar sales also saw a healthy increase of 5%, reaching $28.4 billion, accounting for nearly a quarter of the $115 billion beer market.
While states like Colorado and Oregon have long been known as craft beer epicenters, Iowa has emerged as a formidable player with an impressive count of 120 breweries across the state. The economic impact of these breweries was estimated to be around $963 million in 2022, according to the Brewers Association.
Clark Lewey, co-founder of Toppling Goliath, attributes Iowa’s craft beer success to several factors. Firstly, it’s the exceptional taste of the beer itself, providing a unique and distinct experience from everyday brews. Additionally, the allure lies in visiting smaller breweries in towns where their beer is exclusively available. This exclusivity creates an intriguing and enticing aspect for beer enthusiasts who find a particular beer they love and can only get it in that specific location, fostering a sense of discovery and connection to the local community.
Clark Lewey points out another crucial factor contributing to the success of Iowa’s craft beer industry: the staff and management of the brewpubs. According to him, there is a strong resonance between the people who create and serve the craft beer and the consumers who eagerly seek out these products. The craft beer industry serves as a unique space where the interests and passions of the producers align closely with those of the consumers.
Lewey highlights that many individuals involved in the craft beer industry share a common love for the outdoors. They are often outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy activities like hiking and cycling, making them natural companions to the beer-loving community. This shared passion creates a strong bond and a sense of camaraderie between the breweries’ staff and the patrons.
In essence, the craft beer culture in Iowa fosters a welcoming and inclusive environment where like-minded individuals connect over their shared interests, and this sense of community contributes significantly to the industry’s overall success. The combination of outstanding beer, charming small towns, and a genuine connection between the people involved creates a unique and attractive experience for beer enthusiasts across the state and beyond.